Budapest’s First Croissant Restaurant: Mattarello Brings Israeli Innovation to Hungary’s Capital
Budapest has always been a city that embraces culinary innovation, and the latest addition to its vibrant food scene is nothing short of revolutionary. Mattarello, the city’s first dedicated croissant restaurant, has opened its doors on Dohány Street, bringing a fresh perspective to the beloved French pastry that goes far beyond traditional expectations.
A Culinary Journey from Kibbutz to Budapest
The story behind Mattarello begins in an Israeli kibbutz, where Adi Peretz discovered his passion for baking after a life-changing accident in 2019. Originally a photographer, Peretz found solace and purpose in the art of bread-making, spending three dedicated years perfecting his craft before feeling confident enough to serve what he considered truly exceptional baked goods to his customers.
What makes Peretz’s approach unique is his commitment to knowing his suppliers personally, looking them in the eye before making any purchases, and sourcing ingredients locally and seasonally whenever possible. This philosophy of authenticity and connection has traveled with him from Israel to Hungary, where he now leads an eight-person team in bringing his vision to life.
More Than Just a Bakery: A Culinary Experience
Stepping into Mattarello feels like entering a food laboratory where creativity knows no bounds. The 170-square-meter, two-story space is thoughtfully divided into three distinct areas, each serving a specific purpose in the croissant-making journey.
The centerpiece is an impressive display bakery where head pastry chef Ella Weinberg crafts croissants and croissant-based creations before the eyes of curious diners. Adjacent to this theatrical baking space lies Peretz’s kitchen kingdom, where glass jars filled with house-made fermented fruits and vegetables create a rainbow of flavors waiting to be incorporated into dishes.
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Redefining the Croissant Experience
At Mattarello, the croissant transcends its traditional role as a simple breakfast pastry. Here, you’ll encounter croissant in forms you never imagined: as a cream, transformed into bruschetta, crafted into sushi-like creations, and incorporated into both sweet and savory dishes that challenge conventional thinking about this buttery delight.
The signature croissant itself is a 48-hour labor of love that Peretz proudly describes as neither French nor Nordic, but distinctly Israeli. These flaky, butter-rich giants serve as the foundation for an ever-changing menu that reflects seasonal availability and the chef’s daily inspiration.
A Menu That Changes with the Seasons
One of Mattarello’s most exciting features is its dynamic approach to menu planning. Rather than sticking to a fixed selection, the restaurant’s offerings change daily based on the freshest ingredients available and the chef’s creative mood. This means every visit to Mattarello promises a new adventure for your taste buds.
The restaurant’s partnership with Farm2Fork ensures access to high-quality local produce, while Peretz continues his practice of drawing inspiration from seasonal market finds. This commitment to freshness and locality creates a unique dining experience that connects diners with the rhythms of Hungarian agriculture.
Innovative Flavor Combinations That Surprise and Delight
The creativity at Mattarello shines brightest in their unexpected flavor pairings. Imagine biting into a celery croissant where the subtle, fresh cream evokes citrus notes, or experiencing the harmonious blend of sage, peach jam, and goat cheese foam. Even more adventurous combinations like vanilla, red wine, and manchego cheese, or fermented grapes with rice pudding, demonstrate the kitchen’s fearless approach to flavor exploration.
These bold combinations never feel overwhelming or pretentious. Instead, they represent a thoughtful exploration of how familiar ingredients can create entirely new taste experiences when approached with creativity and skill.
Beyond Croissants: A Complete Culinary Journey
While croissants are undoubtedly the star, Mattarello offers much more. The “Bite” section of the menu presents croissant in its most experimental forms, serving as unique accompaniments rather than main attractions. The “Plates” section features more substantial dishes like ceviche made with sea bass, apple-celery dressing, and kaffir lime foam, all served on toasted croissant.
For those seeking familiar comfort, the restaurant also offers classics like omelet-filled croissant sandwiches, proving that innovation doesn’t mean abandoning beloved traditions.
The Perfect Pairing: Coffee and Atmosphere
No croissant experience would be complete without exceptional coffee, and Mattarello delivers with a custom blend roasted specifically for the restaurant by 42 Coffee Roastery. The impressive three-armed La Marzocco espresso machine stands ready to handle the morning rush, while the restaurant also features premium matcha sourced from Matchæologist.
The space itself contributes to the overall experience, with ceramic works by Konda Brigi adding artistic flair to the presentation. A small terrace will soon complement the two-story dining area, providing an additional space for guests to enjoy their croissant creations.
A New Chapter in Budapest’s Food Story
Mattarello represents more than just another restaurant opening in Budapest. It embodies the city’s growing reputation as a destination for culinary innovation, where international influences blend seamlessly with local ingredients and traditions. For visitors to Budapest, this croissant restaurant offers a unique opportunity to experience how global culinary trends can take root and flourish in Hungarian soil.
The restaurant’s approach to treating brunch as “middle-class fine dining” reflects a broader trend in Budapest’s food scene, where casual dining experiences are elevated through attention to detail, quality ingredients, and creative presentation.
Planning Your Visit
Located at 1074 Budapest, Dohány utca 5, Mattarello is perfectly positioned for tourists exploring the city center. The restaurant’s commitment to daily menu changes means that each visit offers something new, making it worth multiple trips during your stay in Budapest.
Whether you’re seeking a quick breakfast pastry to go or a leisurely brunch experience that challenges your preconceptions about what a croissant can be, Mattarello delivers an unforgettable culinary adventure that perfectly captures Budapest’s spirit of innovation and hospitality.
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